In this video I show how I leveled a sloping bedroom floor that sloped down in the back corner by 3.25" over a 10 foot span (about 8cm over 3m). I did this by sistering in new joists that were level and then putting in a new plywood subfloor to meet up with the old subfloor.
If you'd like to get a pair of the HISEA pants or steel toed workboots, you can get a 15% discount by using the following link and entering the code HSWORK15.
You can find everything I used in this project at my Amazon storefront at www.amazon.com/shop/woodumakeit.
Items I used in this project include:
Evolution Power Tools Miter Saw and Stand: amzn.to/3RfDa6K
Ridgid Palm Nailer: amzn.to/34QiGOd
Makita Framing Nailer: amzn.to/3BwCIJA
DeWalt Pry Bar: amzn.to/3BwCIJA
Makita Driver and Drill: amzn.to/3sRns6b
Makita Brushless Circular Saw: amzn.to/3h0FUU8
72" level: amzn.to/3gZ7PE1
Narex Chisels: amzn.to/359jlKz
Makita Multitool: amzn.to/359jlKz
I bought this house for my daughter to live in a year ago.
And one of the big issues with the house is in the master bedroom, it's got a sloping floor because the foundation in the back corner had sunken down., When, I measure up to the level point it's off by about 3-1/4", which is a huge drop over 10.
I want to do is lift up the hardwood flooring.
And then I can take these pieces and use them to do some repairs around the rest of the house.
So, I'm, drilling, some holes in one end and some holes in the other end of the board and then I'll run.
My circular saw to cut out the piece.
So that I can lift it out.
And then with the rest of the tongue and groove pieces.
It should be fairly easy to pry them.
Out., But after I took out this first piece, I realized the flooring was only a 1/4" thick, rather than the 3/4" thick that I was expecting.
And so there was no way that I was going to be able to get this out and reuse it.
So over the following week, I had my wife and daughter, remove all of the flooring.
And we just took it home and burnt it.
So before I get started I got these steel-toed work boots and a pair of pants from a company called HISEA and I really like them --.
Especially the pants --.
They're a lot more durable than denim.
And they've got lots of pockets, which come in handy when I'm carrying around my tools and other things.
And what I really like about them is that there's a portion of the waistband that's stretchy.
So they fit really well with or without a belt.
If you want to get a pair of these I've got a 15 off coupon in the description.
The subfloor is also tongue and groove so it's going to be a little bit of a chore to get it.
I'll start by prying.
The shortest piece that I could find.
I don't want to cut into the joists, or at least not by very much.
So I'm measuring the thickness of the subfloor and then I'm going to cut around the perimeter of the room going as close to the edge of the wall as I can.
For, the remaining pieces of the subfloor there's, very little chance.
I can remove these without breaking them.
So I'm going to cut them down the middle to make them easier to remove.
There's, a lot of dust flying around.
So I did eventually put on a mask.
This video is very different from a lot of my other videos, where I'm doing finer woodworking, but don't unsubscribe, just because of this one video because I have a lot more chessboard videos on the way.
But if you like this type of content, let me know because we have a lot more renovations to do in this house and I'm doing another renovation project in somebody else's as well.
So comment below.
And let me know if you would like more of this type of content.
It was not that difficult to remove the subfloor.
But it was a long tedious process.
Next, I use my reciprocating saw to cut a little bit closer to the edge of the wall.
I started with my circular saw because I wanted to open up the floor and see what was underneath.
And as you can see here, there are some wires.
So if I had started by cutting out the floor with a reciprocating saw there's, no telling what I would have damaged.
I got this miter saw from Evolution Power Tools.
And this is the first time I've had a miter saw that has a stand, which is great when I'm at a job site.
What I really like about the saw is it's, not very heavy.
So it's easy to carry around from site to site.
Some of my other miter saws are like 70 pounds and they're, pretty awkward to carry around.
This is my go-to miter saw for work that I'm doing on site.
There's, a link in the description, if you're interested in getting a tool like this., I've got this little block of wood and I'm using a pry bar to lift the 2x4 up to be as tight to the bottom of the old subfloor as I can.
And the purpose of this 2x4 is just to pad it out.
So that it's away from the flooring and then I can put in the joist.
It's, a pretty tight space between the joists and it's hard to get a hammer in there or a larger nail gun.
So I'm using this palm nailer, which is a pretty handy tool for tight spaces.
There were some remnants of knob and tube wiring nailed to the floor joists so I had to remove some of those because they were in the way.
It was at this point in the video editing process that I realized that I was missing the entire afternoon.
And the most important part of this whole floor, leveling process., The.
Last thing you saw was me nailing in a 2x4 along this side.
And that was not the new joist that was just to pad it out from the edge of the flooring.
So that I could put in the 2x6 joist.
2x6, doesn't sound like very much, but I'm, not just hanging the joist from one end to the other I'm nailing it into the 2x12 that was existing and I, put probably 20 nails along its length.
So it's, actually, very strong.
And I raised this point up and the new sistered in joist to be level from front to back and from side to side, and then I put in this 2x4 and just set it on top of the two joists so that it would guide my placement of the new joists as I, put them in so I was putting in each joist to be touching the bottom of this 2x4.
And now you can see that it's, pretty level.
It's, not exact maybe I could raise it up another eighth of an inch, but it's, pretty close.
At this point we can resume our regular programming.
This is the following weekend and I have the recording working properly now and I'm sistering in the remaining three joists I start by screwing it in place, just to get them level.
and then I'll nail them in place.
And this time I'm using a larger nailer.
This is a framing nailer that doesn't really fit between the joists.
But when I angle it up, I can still get in place.
This is a lot faster than the palm nailer, because with a single click of the trigger.
It puts the nail in rather than hammering.
It repeatedly like the palm nailer, does., We used a pry bar on this joist to make sure that it was sitting snugly against the other joist, which was a little bit curved.
Now, it's time to put down the flooring.
I'm going to cut the length of the plywood.
So that it lands on a joist.
And before I, put it down I'm using a little bit of blue tape to mark the locations of the joists.
So that I know where to place the screws.
I'll just draw a line for each of the joists and then screw them in and I'm, putting screws in every six or eight inches or so.
This is going to be really solid with no chance of the floors ever squeaking.
I'll finish up the end with a small piece, that's about 18 inches.
The point where the plywood is going to meet the old subfloor I have the new floor, joists set a little bit high.
Because the plywood is a little bit thinner than the old subfloor.
One of those knob and tube remnants turned out not to be a remnant and I ended up cutting a live wire.
So I ran a couple of cables back to the panel and have them here, tucked away for future.
And for this last row of plywood I have to notch out the corner.
I'm using my battery, operated circular saw, which is so convenient to use.
And it has a break.
So it stops almost instantly.
When you turn it off.
And, the same thing for the other side; I have to notch it out around the supports that are holding up what used to be a load-bearing wall.
This point as I, get closer to the front of the house I get to a point where the old subfloor moves from being beneath the new floor to being at the same level as the new floor.
So I have to cut around that to make it fit.
Then I just have these last little strips to piece in these are about three inches, wide.
So that pretty much does it for this project.
We're, not going to put down the hardwood flooring at this point.
It'd, be nice if we could, but we have some other renovations in this room that we want to do before.
We can put down the flooring.
So over here, where we've got the transition from the old subfloor to the new subfloor., You can see there's a little bit of a gap.
The old, subfloor dips down in the middle and I tried to mimic that over on this side by having the new joist, a little bit lower in the middle.
So that the transition won't be that bad.
These, small pieces that I put in here.
Those are screwed into the old floor, joists and that's.
Why they're lower because this plywood is not as thick.
This is about 7/8".
And this is less than 3/4".
Think what I'm going to do is take some wood filler and fill it in here to have a nice transition.
And then we should be pretty good to lay the hardwood.
So over here, we're going to do two things --.
Three things actually --.
This is an old window we're going to replace this window we're going to put we're going to take off the drywall and we're going to put insulation in the wall.
This has a large closet on the other side of the wall.
But it's only accessible from the hallway so we're going to close off that door and we're going to put a new door here to make it a closet for the master bedroom.
This is a load-bearing wall.
So we'll have to be very careful.
We'll have to support the joists on either side before we take out this stud and put in a proper header.
Over here we have what's currently, the only bathroom in the house and it's, very small.
You have to navigate around the toilet in order to get into the bathtub.
So, we're going to expand it out into the master bedroom.
We've got about 18 inches here that we can bring the wall out.
So we've already taken off some of the drywall and lath.
It used to be plaster on this wall, just to explore what's in there.
There's, no venting.
There's, actually, an air admittance valve in the vanity, which is not really up to code.
So we'll see if we can fix that as well and make it better., We're gonna bring this wall out we'll, put a pocket door in we'll, put in a new vanity, shower, and new toilet and we're going to move the toilet so it's going to be pretty cool.
So, that's, it., Normally I would ask "would, you make it?", but I didn't really make anything here.
But if you have a sloping bedroom floor that you need to level I think, this is not a bad.
I gotta ask...
Would you DO it?.
One of the best ways to fix the issue of uneven floor is to use floor patch product. It can be used in concrete subfloor or wooden subfloor. It is best for leveling floors that has dips, slanting issues, cracks and chipping problems.How do you level a bedroom floor? ›
Pour the liquid-like floor leveler onto the subfloor and smooth it out with a trowel. Gravity will help it settle into the low areas. Remove any excess floor leveler and feather it around the edges so it blends with the rest of the floor. Let the floor leveler dry overnight or as indicated by the manufacturer.How do you flatten a sloping floor? ›
The easiest way to level a floor involves using a self-leveling compound, which uses gravity to smooth out any dips in the subfloor. If you need to know how to level a floor without leveling compound to fix structural issues, it can be more difficult.How do you level a badly sloped floor? ›
The easiest way is to use a self-leveling compound, also called liquid floor underlayment or floor resurfacer, within sections of level-cut rails. The material flows out like thick syrup, then hardens into a smooth, perfectly level surface, sometimes in less than an hour.Why is my bedroom floor sloping? ›
Causes of Sloping Floors
Foundation settlement is the primary reason of sloped floors. As the home/structure begins to sink into a non-load-bearing stratum, the home settles unevenly, putting uneven pressure on the home's foundation.
Signs of a Significant Problem
The degree to which your floor slopes or sags indicates whether or not you have reason for concern. Typically, floors that slope 1-1/2 inches or less in 20 feet is not a problem. Floors that sag 2 inches or more in 20 feet, though, are a cause for concern.
Foundation reinforcement is one avenue for fixing sloping floors. This can be accomplished without replacing much or any of the original foundational structure of the home but involves installing steel piers or other supports. It could also entail installing new foundation footers to support the floor structure.What is the cheapest way to level a floor? ›
If you want to raise the height of a floor, the cheapest and easiest way is to add a thick underlayment designed for the job. There are other options too like adding a framed wooden subfloor or floor leveling compound before installing new flooring.How do you level a floor quickly? ›
A faster solution that works for all types of flooring on both wood and concrete subfloors is to use a self-leveling underlayment. Available as either pre-mixed or a dry mix, it's a cement-based material meant to be mixed (if required), poured, then troweled into low spots.Can you level a floor yourself? ›
Many people choose to level their floors themselves using a self-levelling compound (also known as a self-levelling screed), a product that can be picked up from most DIY warehouses or builders' merchants. They can be used over concrete, timber, plywood, ceramic floors and more.
The typical costs for repairing sagging floors start at $1000 and can go up to $10,000, with the average rate being around $300 per square foot. But this can vary depending on the extent of the damage and materials needed to get the job done.Will a sagging floor collapse? ›
Sagging floors are not only deformed and unappealing but they can be dangerous. They can collapse and cause injuries if they're not fixed quickly.Do uneven floors always mean foundation problems? ›
Uneven floors in a house are usually a sign of a foundation problem, but not always. For example, if you live in a house with a crawl space foundation, uneven floors might be a sign the support posts in your crawl space have settled, or the screw jacks have deteriorated and rusted out.Can you use self-leveling compound on a slope? ›
However, using self-leveling compound thinking it's going to level a concrete floor that's sloping due to foundation settlement is a bad decision. While your repair might look OK for awhile, the problem will return because the problem isn't the concrete, it's the foundation.What is considered an unlevel floor? ›
The term “uneven floors” is used to describe any floor surface that sags, bounces, buckles or slopes. As mentioned above, it's common to find slanted floors in a house more than 15 years old due to the home's foundation shifting over time.Does underlayment help with uneven floors? ›
If you have an uneven sub surface, a underlay floor can potentially help level it out, but we don't recommend this at all. An uneven surface under a floor can cause boards to sink and shift, potentially cracking or splitting them. You can't double up on underlay.What is the easiest floor leveling compound to use? ›
- Best Overall Self-Leveling Underlayment—Rapid Set CTS Concrete Leveler. ...
- Best Self-Leveling Concrete for a Concrete Floor—Quikrete High-Performance Cement FastSet Self-Leveling Floor Resurfacer for Ceramic Tiles. ...
- Best Self-Leveling Concrete for a Flat Surface—HENRY 565 FloorPro.
Though floor sloping is a common problem, it isn't purely a cosmetic problem. Floor sloping can indicate that there's a much more severe issue at hand. Sloping floors can signify that there is significant structural damage to a home's foundation, warped floor joists, or water damage requiring foundation repair.Does a floor need to be perfectly level? ›
No subfloor is perfectly level, but any signs of unevenness and high or low spots must be remedied. Please follow these requirements: Subfloor unevenness cannot be greater than 3/16 of an inch over a 10-foot span or 1/8 inch over a 6-foot span. Subfloors must not slope more than ½ inch per 6 feet (25 mm per 1.8 m)Why does my bedroom floor bounce? ›
The feeling of bounce is caused by the flooring moving downward when weight is applied (stepped on). The flooring moves or bounces as it is not properly supported from underneath which puts added pressure on the flooring joints, in most cases causing them to separate, break or squeak.
It's important not to jack your floor too fast. If you do, you can cause the wall above the area to crack. Instead, Jack your floor slowly. As a rule of thumb, you only want to raise your floor 1/8 of an inch a day.What is the best flooring for an old house with uneven floors? ›
The best flooring for uneven floors due to its attractiveness and durability is epoxy, which can also be designed to mimic a wide variety of appearances. Not only will epoxy finish out the floor, but it'll also even it out.Are sloping floors in older homes normal? ›
In some cases, a slight slope may be normal and not cause for concern. However, if the slope is severe or getting worse over time, it could be a sign of a serious problem that requires immediate attention. One potential risk of sloping floors is damage to the structural integrity of the home.What is acceptable floor deflection? ›
What is the acceptable deflection for a floor that will be tiled? Traditionally, the accepted minimum requirement for floor rigidity is L/360 – before the tile underlayment is installed. The L/360 standard means that the floor should not deflect more than the “span” divided by 360.Are sagging floors normal in old houses? ›
If you own an old home there is a good chance you have soft or sagging floors because of how the house was constructed. Most old homes with sagging floors were not built on the modern concrete foundation, they are sitting on dirt.Can I fix sagging floors myself? ›
Sagging or bouncy floors problems are often caused by a weak floor joist that has sagged under the load of people walking on the floor above. If the issue is caused by just one or two joists, you can probably handle it yourself by attaching a “sister joist” to the original ones.What do you put over an uneven subfloor? ›
The best option for slightly uneven subfloors is a direct stick installation (involving nails & glue) if this is a viable option. Floating flooring is not recommended for uneven floors as this increases risk of the planks moving or splitting apart.What causes upstairs floors to sag? ›
Poor structural support is the most common cause of sagging floors. When your floor joists start to bend downwards due to pressure and weight of the overlying material, your floor will start sagging. The best way to fix sagging floor joists is by installing new support structures such as jacks.Is it expensive to level a floor? ›
Average Cost to Level the Floor in a House
On average, you are looking at about $3 – $5 per square foot. So, for a 100 square foot slab, it would generally cost between $300 and $500.
Your cost will range between $5 and $7 per square foot for the first three to four inches of concrete fill. Each additional inch of thickness will cost about $0.40 to $0.60 per square foot to reach the height you want to achieve.
Coverage: One 50 Lb. bag will cover approximately 40 Sq. Ft. at 1/8 In.How many bags does it take to level a floor? ›
At half-inch thickness, a 50-pound bag of Concrete Leveler will sufficiently cover 12 to 15 square feet. For a quarter-inch-thick application, the same size bag would cover between 24 and 30 square feet.How thick can you pour floor leveler? ›
QUIKRETE® Fast-Setting Self-Leveling Floor Resurfacer (No. 1249-51) can be installed from 1-1/2 inch (38 mm) thick to a feather edge, although a ¼ inch (6.3 mm) minimum thickness is required for heavy traffic areas.What do you put on floor before self-leveling? ›
Why do I need a primer for self-levelling compound? Most subfloors will benefit from the application of a floor primer to reduce the risk of surface imperfections, such as pinholing.Will homeowners insurance cover sagging floors? ›
Does home insurance cover foundation movement or sagging floors? Foundation damage caused by shifting or settling earth or sagging floors caused by rotting floor joists are typically not covered by homeowners insurance. If the damage is caused by flooding or an earthquake, you'll typically require separate coverage.Are sloping floors common? ›
Sloped floors are commonly found in older homes, but can also occur in newer houses as well. The slopping has a variety of different causes, such as naturally occurring bend in the wood joists, structural foundation issues, and deteriorating supports.How much does it cost to fix uneven floors in an old house? ›
According to HomeAdvisor, homeowners can expect to pay between $300 and $6,500 to repair a sloping floor in their home.How do I know if my floor will collapse? ›
Bowing or uneven floors that are separated from the wall can be a sign that a home is likely to collapse. Look for sunken, heaved, or sloped areas on floors inside the building. They may also feel bouncy. Don't forget to check if the wall moldings are out-of-place, too.
Look for bowing floors or areas where floors are separating from walls. Cracks that start at the top corners of doors or windows and extend toward the ceiling can be a sign of a shifting foundation. Hairline cracks might not be anything to worry about.How do you tell if a floor is collapsing? ›
- Cracks in walls.
- Sagging floors or floors deflecting from wall.
- Displaced columns.
- Cracking or dropping arches.
- Bulging walls.
- Buckling columns or beams.
- Water or smoke that pushes through what appears to be a solid masonry wall.
You should walk away from foundation issues if the person selling the house refuses to lower the asking price to compensate for the necessary repairs. That means you'll need to have already had the home inspected by either a foundation repair contractor or a structural engineer.Will foundation repair fix uneven floors? ›
The first step in fixing uneven floors caused by foundation issues is to address the foundation problem itself. This may involve adding additional support to the foundation or repairing any damage that has occurred. Once the foundation is stabilized, you may need to have the floors leveled by a professional.How do you arrange a bedroom with slanted walls? ›
- asbe / E+ via Getty Images. ...
- Add Wooden Beams. ...
- Arrange the Bed Against the Slanted Wall. ...
- Use Short Shelving. ...
- Highlight Natural Light Sources. ...
- Paint Walls White. ...
- Add Wall Panels. ...
- Bring in Cozy Accent Lighting.
Show off slanted ceilings with lots of lighting
Lots of small lamps are ideal – these enable you to light up even the darkest nooks and crannies and make a room look more structured: for example, you can easily differentiate between a reading corner, sleeping area and workspace.
Typically, floors that slope 1-1/2 inches or less in 20 feet is not a problem. Floors that sag 2 inches or more in 20 feet, though, are a cause for concern. Additional indicators of a significant problem include: Foundation cracks.What is the cheapest way to raise the height of a floor? ›
If you want to raise the height of a floor, the cheapest and easiest way is to add a thick underlayment designed for the job. There are other options too like adding a framed wooden subfloor or floor leveling compound before installing new flooring.Can sloping floors be fixed? ›
Foundation reinforcement is one avenue for fixing sloping floors. This can be accomplished without replacing much or any of the original foundational structure of the home but involves installing steel piers or other supports. It could also entail installing new foundation footers to support the floor structure.Can a bedroom have a sloped ceiling? ›
A sloped ceiling in the bedroom might seem like a drawback, but you can use this architectural feature to create a cozy space in your personal retreat.How do you set up a weird shaped bedroom? ›
The best way to deal with an odd shaped room is to pull the furniture away from the walls and use the pieces to create barriers and zones. By floating these two chairs in this nook we establish this area as a separate zone and create a cozy seating alcove.What can I do with angled walls in my bedroom? ›
- How to Decorate a Slanted Wall in a Bedroom: 15 Ideas. ...
- - Add personality with wallpaper. ...
- - Maximize natural light with light-colored walls and window dressings. ...
- - Use a rug to add color and interest. ...
- - Hang curtains high to make the room feel taller. ...
- - Use tall furniture to help offset the effect of slanted walls.
My advice is to try setting it up flat against the wall first, but, if the room truly works best when it's placed at an angle, then that is most likely the best decision. I might angle a bed in a large bedroom, but, I would be very cautious about using that idea in a smaller space.What is the best bedroom orientation? ›
To achieve balance, your head should point southward while you sleep, in line with the Earth's electromagnetic pull. Ideally, your entire bedroom would be oriented south as well. Some research has shown that those who sleep in the north-south position also take longer.What are slanted walls called? ›
If your walls have a slope (also called eaves), I have some ideas for how to design your living room, bathroom, kitchen, office, bedroom, or play room to work with the ceilings and not against them.Where should a bed be placed in a slanted ceiling? ›
If your bedroom has a sloped ceiling be sure to locate your bed, especially your headboard, under the highest part of the sloped ceiling. This is typically in the center of the room. Positioning your bed under the lowest part of a sloped ceiling contributes to emotional instability and low energy.How do you fix a ceiling that is not level? ›
Screw a furring strip flush against the ceiling at the low point, and shim its ends to level it. Now you have a level surface across the room. Remove the temporary strips at the ends of the room. Editor's tip: For this project, flat shims work great to fill most of the space.What is the sloping part of a ceiling called? ›
A flat sloping part of a ceiling. It can be a small section sloping upwards as the eaves meet the roof or, where the roof space is used to make a habitable room, the sloping section (skeiling can be considerable).